I then shrank the heat-shrink tubing with a heat gun. Once each leg was soldered, I slipped a little heat shrink tubing over the solder joint to protect it from the weather and to keep it from short-circuiting against the other MAX31820 pins.
The soldered joint, protected by heat shrink tubing I first soldered power, data, and ground wires to the MAX31820 leads, using a simplified version of the Western Union splice.
The MAX31820 temperature sensor is connected to power and ground, and its data line is pulled up to 3.3V with a 4.7K Ohm resistor.īecause it’s such a simple circuit, I decided to bare-solder the parts together, without a breadboard. The circuit for the project is pretty simple, as you can see from the above Fritzing diagram. I love 3D printing! Soldering the Circuit Fritzing diagram of the circuit STL files from the Github repository, and print them. The beauty of 3D printing is that to make your weather station project box, you just need to download the. You can’t see it in the above figure, but I angled the box so that when it’s mounted the top is sloped to keep the rain off. So the box I designed (also in the Github repository) has two nail holes for mounting, a sliding door at the bottom, and two holes at the bottom for the power cord and the sensor. All of the design notes are in the diary file of the Github repository. I designed the 3D printable project box to keep the rain off of the circuit, to be easy to mount with nails to a wall, and to make it easy to pull the circuit out to see how it’s behaving. The open source project files are in my MAX31820WeatherStation Github repository. The whole project fits inside a 3D printed project box for mounting on an exterior wall that is sheltered from the weather. Today’s post is a How-To for a project I recently completed: a temperature-only Weather Underground Personal Weather Station made from an ESP8266, a MAX31820 temperature sensor, and a few miscellaneous parts.
0 kommentar(er)
